Quite often, many young people, both male and female, have to learn how to shave without any form of guidance. After shaving unwanted hairs – bodily or facial – most of them find themselves with a new problem; unsightly pimples and bumps. The following tutorial is written with people of African descent in mind, because let’s face it, black people are most prone to getting shaving bumps and pimples compared to people of other races.
What causes shaving bumps and pimples
According to the reputable site, WebMD, the medical term for shaving pimples is pseudofolliculitis barbae and lumps caused by bacteria are called bacterial folliculitis, the latter in this case occurring as a result of shaving abrasions and or other skin trauma. Before we get into how to shave without getting pimples or bumps, it is important that we identify the cause of the dreaded post shave outbreak.
Shaving bumps and pimples on black skin occur because of ingrown hair. African hair strands grow in a spiral pattern, unlike Caucasian hair which generally grows straight. When a chin or pubic hair strand is cut very close to, or beneath the surface, which usually when happens when one aspires to a clean shave, the strand will coil up under the skin resulting in a bump. People of other races, whose hair grows straight, are less likely to get shaving bumps. The dark bumps that are visible on the surface are collagen produced by the body in response to skin damage. What also happens as a result of shaving is pimple outbreaks. These occur when bacteria enter open cuts or abrasions. The body’s response is to send white blood cells to the infected area which we then see just beneath the surface as pus-filled pimples.
How to shave without pimple outbreak, my way
As the saying goes, there are many ways to skin a cat, although the reasonable man would question the motive behind skinning a cat. To reiterate, there are many ways to achieve a pimple-free shave but what I will share below is my anecdotal. Like most other young black people, I received no shaving pep talk or parental tutorial. Nobody called me into the bathroom where father and son or mother and daughter stand before identical mirrors with matching razors in hand. After moving out of home, I lived with a roommate who, like me, had to find his own method of how to shave. And, like the majority of black men, we both found ourselves with bumps and pimples. Women too complained of the same problem in pubic zones. This continued for another decade of shaving until I finally found my own solution. And rather than sit back and watch other young people making the same mistakes that I made, I will share with you my secrets.
I must also mention that the most obvious answer to how to shave without getting pimples is using battery/electric clippers but those are pricier than disposable razors and will, therefore, not be covered here.
Brand new razor, always
The first mistake I made was buying just one disposable razor which I used everywhere; the armpits, crotch and chin. A disposable razor can only go so far. If you overuse it, the blades become blunt. Think of trying to kill a chicken with a blunt butter knife. All you succeed in doing is causing bruises. Also, when you use a new razor, you need fewer shaving strokes to remove hair and the fewer the strokes, the less skin damage. After use, a razor is clogged with dead skin tissue. Left in the bathroom, these skin cells invite bacteria, ready to transfer to your skin once you reuse the razor. So if you are going to use a razor more than once, always try to sterilize it with alcohol, hand sanitizer or methylated spirits. But whatever you do, don’t swipe across the blade with tissue paper, towel or cotton balls. This could blunt your razor.
Prep your skin
The best time to shave is after you have scrubbed clean, and if you can, do it in the evening. Shaving a dirty skin will lead to bacteria transfer into the inevitable micro cuts and abrasions. When you clean your skin ahead of a shave, avoid hard scrubbing because this creates other bruises. Aways use warm water and soap when preparing to shave. Warm water and soap open the hair cuticles and soften it, which makes for an easier shave. After gently scrubbing with warm soapy water, rinse the area with clean warm water and then pat it dry with a clean towel. Using a dirty, bacteria infested towel is asking for a pimple outbreak.
My no pimple secret
If you have seen razor adverts, all filmed in sparkling bathrooms with shirtless hunky men, you will have noticed that they all shave with fluffy white foam. This is every black person’s first shaving mistake. Most prominent razors/ shaving sticks are made in countries where black people are in the minority and, therefore, shaving methods are Eurocentric. If you search the word “shaving” Google images will offer up a string of lathery white faces, proving that most shaving products are manufactured with non-black skin in mind. When I discovered how to shave without getting pimples, it was after going through wads of shaving foam and, sometimes, bath soap. If you have sensitive skin, as I do, these same shaving creams irritate the newly shaved skin.
Be gentle
Observe the direction of hair growth and shave along, rather than against, the growth which, for facial hair is downwards, until you reach under the chin where your strokes should be backwards i.e. towards your throat. Avoid applying too much pressure. You only want to remove unwanted hairs, not the skin. It takes a while to find the right amount of pressure to apply, when you get it right, all you need is, at most, three strokes per square inch to get a clean shave. Whatever you do, avoid the urge to change direction even if you see one stubborn residual hair. Don’t do it!
To keep your razor free of hair clippings, tap it against the edge of the bath basin after every few strokes. If you are shaving thick or long hair, first trim it down using a pair of scissors and then use your razor.
The aftershave
When you are satisfied that all the hair is gone, gently wipe with a clean dry towel. Your movements should be featherlight, do not use force. The bog standard shaving guide will tell you to wash with cold water at this point but I don’t advise it.
The next step is as important as the secret I shared above. Making sure your hands are clean, pour enough after shave onto your open palm and then cover the shaved area. Here, you can use force so that the aftershave enters every cut and abrasion. Finding the best aftershave is really about experimentation. The best way is to choose safe brands and types. I once used an expensive designer aftershave, which didn’t do a good job. Many years later, a friend recommended the Nivea range of aftershaves. I hate to give free advertising but this is, as I promised, my way of saving other young black people from repeating the mistakes I made.
After the application of aftershave, another huge mistake that most people make is applying body lotion, Vaseline, roll-on anti-perspirant or other epidermal creams. Don’t do it. Leave your skin alone for the next 24 hours to allow the abrasions to heal. And try not to touch the area, unless your hands are clean. If possible, try to control your sweating. If you know you are likely to sweat (especially after shaving armpits) try to schedule your shave for bedtime. To ensure your skin remains supple, your next shave should not be in the next 48 hours.
Well, that’s it then. My secret on how to shave without getting pimples.
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